No pattern? No problem! A hoop made from math.

Today I made the hoop slip, and considering that I did not have a pattern I think it turned out DARN well.  I decided the best way to make the skirt would be to make a pattern piece that, when four were sewn together, would make the circular skirt.

I originally measured out my muslin pattern piece for a hoop that would have a 100 inch circumference at the bottom.  After looking at the hooping of that size, though, I thought it looked too small so I did some more research online.  Turns out that 100 inches seems to have been a standard size for day dresses, dinner dresses, etc, but for a ballgown the hoops were more like 120 to 135 inches.  So I revised my pattern by cutting out another smaller piece that would go between the bigger ones for eight total pieces of fabric sewn into a circle.
 
This is my original measurement/sketch sheet - I had a couple of different ideas.

Muslin laid out on the table to sketch my pattern piece - I measured the length and the width I wanted at top and bottom, then did some math and made guide points so I could draw the angles.

I sewed the eight pattern pieces (four big, four small) together, alternating the large and small.  I decided to make the seams flat felled, and I'm very glad I did.  This needs to be strong, and it REALLY helped with having the inside of the pockets be smooth for the hooping wire.

I then put a big hem in the bottom for the bottom hoop.  For the other hoops, I used my iron to make a crease to follow and sewed a pocket into the skirt.  This seemed easier than making separate pockets to attach, and I was right.

I then cut the hooping to the right length (I missed my guess a bit and the pockets wound up being a couple of inches shorter than I predicted, but that's ok).  And by cut, I really mean "mangle with my small wire cutters until my hands are sore and I sort of break it apart."  Hooping wire is actually two wires set in a balsawood (at least, it looks like balsa) and fabric structure, which is what makes it hold shape so beautifully.

 
The finished product!  The only problem I have is that the top hoop is too close to the waist, so I think it's going to be a very sudden jut out.  If I decide it's too weird, I can take the hoop out and move the loop down.

Chemise

Hello all!  After a few busy weeks of no sewing, I've finally been able to get moving again.  I'm part way through making the chemise.  I have to say, it's a good thing I figured out the whole flat-felled seam thing because the pattern has called for almost all the seams to be flat felled.  And I see why - they're strong, tidy, and they're not going to ravel.

The chemise is now done; it took about 8 hours total.  At least an hour of that involved me doing, redoing, redoing, and redoing the yoke at the top because there's SO much fabric to get gathered in that no matter WHAT side I sewed from I was catching the other half of the fabric and making strange bubbles and darts.  Even as I was doing a final look-over after I did the hem I found another one - somehow I managed to catch half of the underarm on one side and gather it up.  SO annoying.

I did make one change from the pattern; it calls for the addition of a facing on the inside of the underarm.  I understand the idea behind it - extra strength, and you hide a bunch of ugly seams - but I'm not so obsessed with hiding the inner seams, just making sure they're strong and won't ravel.  And since the goal of this project is to have a dress I can wear dancing in August . . . more fabric in the underarms is probably not a good idea.

 This pictures shows the neck gusset, which is that small triangle of fabric sewn on to the top of the front.  The purpose of the neck gusset is to make the front, back, and sleeve join properly and allow for a nice oval shape that will match up with the yoke.

 As you can see, there's a LOT of fabric in the chemise.  Here, the front, back, and side panels have all been attached.  The front and back together are already big enough to go around me, but the side panels add even more volume.

The chemise was the universal undergarment for many periods of history.

The sleeves were surprisingly easy to make . . . as long as I gathered the correct side.  The bands are a little tight on me, but hopefully the fabric will ease a bit and my arms will lose some circumference.

The finished garment!  Well, almost.  I need to get buttons to make the closure at the top, but that's a ten minute job (Sew on button; sew fabric loop for closure).  Overall I'm pretty happy with how it turned out, even if the stupid gather at the top was a royal pain and involved way too much fix-it time.